It’s taken me a couple days to even want to think about it. chris brown and i were nearly inseparable as teenagers. this guy was just such an excited, happy light in my childhood. he introduced me to #almerrick and @cisurfboards. my brother and i stayed with chris and his family on the mesa in sb a couple summers and traveled to mexico, australia, england, puerto rico, hawaii, and beyond with chris and his dad, dave. we used to sit in his house and just goof off all day listening to his brother play every heavy metal song we knew on his guitar. the day i got my first al shape when i was 16, chris and i drove back and forth twice in the same day to lompoc to surf cause sb had no waves. we’d listen to gnr in his brown truck. he used to mess with #joshbradury when josh would follow us in his car by waiting at a turn signal, pretending his car had something wrong with it, even getting out to check the engine, until the light was very yellow and then jump in and take off, leaving josh stuck for another light! haha. chris and i shaped a board together in his parent’s backyard, each shaping a rail. being from the east coast and riding @matt_kechele shapes, i had thick, rounded rails while chris had been schooled on the finer, precision rails that worked well at rincon. when we finally felt the board we laughed and decided we had to have chris reshape mine down to feel like his rail. he actually won a #psaa event on that board cause al was gone for a month somewhere and he had broken his favorite board. i felt a huge sense of pride that he had competed on that thing. chris, sean, and i made ourselves wooden boards to ride the ice plant down the mesa in front of his house. i guess the waves were so flat all summer we had no better ideas. we would skate down the steep hills to the channel islands shop to pass time when there was nothing else to do. it was so exciting being from the east coast, knowing chris, and then getting to know the channel islands family. it was truly life changing for me. chris surfed like tom curren (@curfuffle ). you would see the lineage in every wave he rode and being around that style as a kid was so inspiring.... #yeahchris!
@kai_lenny at jaws the other day got me like 😳🙈 proof that all that cross sports training from windsurfing to kiting is working out. the crazy part is you can’t even see any track behind from where he took off. it reminds me of the olympic ski jump, balancing in the offshore wind. maybe you should try that next, kai. 🤷🏽♂️ 📷 @fred_pompermayer
Little solo session at haleiwa two weeks ago. got cleaned up and caught inside much more than i rode waves but had fun anyway. riding a @slaterdesigns #cymatic 5’3” by @tomo_surfboards. i just need a clean day out there to see how big a wave this thing can handle. thanks @peterkingphoto for the filming and edit. 🤙🏽🏄🏽♂️✌🏽
@shanedorian and i trying to simulate drowning each other in a controlled environment with @mark__visser showing us the ropes of the @theoceanwarrior course he has developed through years of working with military and free divers. it’s very surf specific to show you how to relax in stressful situations without the help of fins or masks, how to trust your training and oxygen levels during long hold downs and bad beatings, and a long list of other simple to follow instructions you can study and train online with a partner or a few friends. good holiday gift. thanks to mark for giving us a starting point to understand all this stuff better. coupled with shane’s inflatable tech, your chances of drowning are about as minimized as can be in big surf. thanks to everyone gathering intel on water safety allows surfers to push their personal boundaries and ride the biggest waves on earth. it’s been a sight to see the past decade and doesn’t seem to be slowing down anytime soon.
I just want to say congrats on an incredible year and for pushing surfing to where it’s at, @filipetoledo. if anyone on tour is a magician, this guy is. he’s probably the fastest surfer to ever live and he’s just getting better which is a real problem for anyone trying to win titles for the next 20 years. he’s humble, talented, and wants to be the best. i’ve enjoyed watching this guy do the impossible since he seemingly came out of nowhere to smoke the world’s best juniors at huntington when he was 15 or 16 years old. i’m a fan. thanks for the battle yesterday. i feel your pain with the loss of year long battle but i know you’ll be in that battle and have it go your way many more times. it was an honor surfing with you yesterday.
Name your favorite place. pipeline’s got my vote.
Well, that was interesting. i thought i just fell straight onto my belly and bodyboarded out. didn’t realize i had to grab for it! haha. hope i did @mikestewart and @kkandmc proud! fun day.
#repost @wsl ・・・
??? 🤯 @kellyslater
#billabongpipemasters #vtcs @billabong @vanssurf